A Parish
Portrait
(circa 1986)
I have always
enjoyed driving through the town of Cleobury Mortimer on what have been
rather infrequent visits to that part of the county in the past. It is
a pleasant town, set on the side of a hill close to the River Rea. On a
recent visit, my reason was purely to walk its streets, and it says
something for this south Shropshire town that, despite the persistent
drizzle, I found the walk most rewarding.
Prior to
walking through the town, however, I took a drive around the parish. To
the east of Cleobury Mortimer, across the river and up Hungry Hill,
towards the Shropshire/Worcestershire border, the land becomes wooded
and is part of the Wyre forest. On the eastern bank of the river, and
standing on the lower slopes of the hill is Mawley Hall, an
18th-century red-brick building with a splendid interior apparently
designed with imagination and little regard for cost. Nearer to the
town, close to where the A4117 and B4363 join, is Castle Toot, a place
possessing, if nothing else a rather amusing name. It is, in fact, the
site of an ancient earthwork which takes advantage of the steep
hillside and river to help form its defences.
To the south
of Cleobury Mortimer the land continues to drop away to Rowley Brook
before climbing again towards the Herefordshire border. Further to the
west are the farming hamlets of Upper and Lower Dudnil and Bransley,
both rather pleasant places.
In reality,
Cleobury Mortimer is barely a town, but I feel its history and, perhaps
surprisingly, its industrial past, combined with a magnificent church,
give it the right to be called a small town rather than being a large
village. Today, in this quiet town, it is hard to believe that it has
been the scene of savage strife and blood-shed.
The history
of Cleobury Mortimer goes back a long time before the Norman Conquest,
as the Castle Toot shows. At the time of the Conquest, Cleobury
Mortimer was held by Queen Edith, wife of Edward the Confessor, and
after the Conquest it was held by Ralph de Mortimer.
Ralph de Mortimer came with the Conqueror from Normandy and was one of
the chiefs at the Battle of Hastings. Later, he was sent to subdue
Edric, Earl of Shrewsbury, and in doing so received the grant of
Edric's estates. He made Cleobury his principle residence and
ultimately gave his name to the town. For the next four centuries the
name Mortimer was well known and possessions grew. Their history has
been well documented and they seemed to have been a family dedicated to
causes, although the record shows that on occasion their cause was
perhaps the wrong one.
Hugh
Mortimer, son and heir of Ralph, refused to pay homage to Henry II on
the death of Stephen, and fortified his three castles at Cleobury,
Bridgnorth and Wigmore in defiance of the king. His defiance was
short-lived, and his castle at Cleobury fell in 1154, and Bridgnorth
the following year. He was also a man who did not get on well with his
neighbours, namely, the Lord of Ludlow who, whenever he was abroad, was
in fear of being taken by Mortimer's men, although it was eventually
Hugh Mortimer himself who was captured and held to ransom in Ludlow.
In 1181,
Roger succeeded his father, and, like his father, was for ever at odds
with his neighbours, but this time choosing Hugh de Saye (of Stokesay).
Roger's son, another Hugh, was a great supporter of King John in his
baronial war (1215). He eventually died of wounds received in a
tournament and was succeeded by his brother, Ralph, in 1227.
Ralph was yet another who delighted in knocking lumps out of his
neighbours, and his talents were directed by the king towards Llewelyn
the Great. So successful was he that Llewelyn gave him his daughter in
marriage. Without being too unkind about the lady, and not wishing to
cast aspersions against the Welsh in general, I wonder whether Llewelyn
thought of the gift as a peace offering or as revenge. Ralph's son,
Roger, who succeeded him, was said to have been something on an
autocrat. But, there again, he was living in a lawless age when,
perhaps, autocracy was the only means of survival. It was Roger de
Mortimer who added Ludlow Castle to his vast holdings by marrying into
the Ludlow family. He had succeeded his father when only eighteen. But
he made the mistake of helping Queen Isabella against her husband,
Edward II, and was subsequently hanged for treason in 1330.
There then
followed some rather youthful lords of Cleobury Mortimer. Roger, who
was only three; and Edward, only seven, when their respective fathers
died. Edmund, when aged sixteen, married Phillippa Plantagenet (aged
thirteen) in 1136, creating another Royal link which was ultimately to
result in Richard, Duke of York's claim to the throne of England.
But, already, the scene was shifting, and Cleobury Mortimer was
becoming less important in the affairs of the Mortimer family. Their
castle at Ludlow was much more substantial than what was left of the
castle at Cleobury Mortimer, and by the mid-15th century the Lords of
Cleobury Mortimer were no longer Mortimer by name.
Although the
political (or military) significance of Cleobury Mortimer had waned,
the place, even by the 14th century, had some justifiable claims to
industrial importance. In particular, its fulling mills were of
importance, as was its wood industry, and Cleobury Mortimer became an
exporter of wooden bowls, dishes and cups in an age when other
materials were scarce. Records show that single orders for as many as
one-thousand dishes and bowls were fulfilled by the Cleobury craftsmen.
Being on the eastern slopes of Titterstone Clee Hill, minerals such as
coal and iron, as well as stone for building, were available, and over
the years the prosperity of Cleobury Mortimer grew from the talents of
its citizens rather than from the influence of its lords.
Later industries included paper making as well as its mining industry.
The list of trades and professions of people in Cleobury Mortimer in
the mid-19th century, considerng the population was only 1,619, is as
comprehensive as the list for many places twice its size. Even today,
despite the changes time has brought, the HIgh Street has most items a
resident would require.
The focal
point in the town is the Church of the Virgin Mary. which stands on a
grassy plinth where the main road dips and turns around the churchyard
wall. It is possible that the founding of this church dates back to
Queen Edith in those pre-Norman times. The present church dates back to
the 12th-century, and its most striking feature is its crooked spire,
the result of its oak beams warped by wind, rain and time.
In the church is a window in recognition that Cleobury was the
birthplace of William Langland, an important contemporary of Chaucer
and author of 'The Vision of Piers the Plowman'. The window was placed
there in 1875, although there are as many who believe that Cleobury was
not his birthplace as there are those who do.
The main
street has some interesting buildings although little of great
architectural interest. But it is buildings like the Talbot Hotel and
other Victorian structures, as well as red-brick shops like the general
ironmongers whose windows and pavement are its showcases for all that
is needed, from grow-bags to tap-washers, for the folk of Cleobury
Mortimer.
The
Shropshire Rambler
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