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 A Parish Portrait
(Written in the late 1980s by The Shropshire Rambler)
Many years ago, Shropshire's greatest author, Mary Webb, wrote
this of Much Wenlock;
"Somewhere in the Middle Ages it has fallen asleep and
if you wonder at the fashion of its garments you must remember
that it had not, since the day it fell asleep, changed its coats,
its hosen or its hat."
Since then we've learnt to move with the fashions, albeit, a
little slowly, but I'm not sure we've woken up, for Much Wenlock
may still be asleep. So if it is, may I wish you welcome to Much
Wenlock, but don't make too much noise, you might wake us up!
Much Wenlock has to
be one of, if not the, county's best-loved small towns, and if
ever the County Council get their act together and solve the
town's chronic traffic problem, it will become second to none
in the county as a peaceful place for tourist and visitor to
wander through ancient streets soaking up a history that seems
to exude from every timber, stone and brick. It was mentioned
as Wenlock in the Domesday Book and there seems to be some difference
of opinion as to the origin of the name. One suggestion is that
the name is derived from Wenna's fold or enclosure, another that
it is from gwenn llwwch, a clear lake or pool.
Wenlock's history, as is to be expected, goes back long before
the Norman Conquest. Around 690 AD a monastery was founded here
by Merewald, whose daughter, Milburga, was the first abbess.
She was the granddaughter of King Penda of Mercia. If legends
are anything to go by she seems to have spent much of her life
riding around the countryside on a horse or donkey, being pursued
by Welsh princes whose intentions were not exactly honourable!
(see Legends &
People)
As with many similar establishments, Wenlock's monastery has
had its share of turmoil and had been destroyed and rebuilt at
least once before the Normans arrived. It was extensively rebuilt
under Roger de Montgomery and was finally dissolved under Henry
VIII who, even schoolchildren know, had something of a grudge
against such establishments. Today the ruins stand proud in the
town and are an attraction well worth visiting.
The town of Much Wenlock probably started developing in the 12th
century, and the Holy Trinity Church originates from this period
although, as can be expected, much in the way of repairs, rebuilding
and remodelling has been done over the centuries since. Beside
the church stands the Guildhall which has origins almost as old
as the church itself. Even today it can be easily seen how this
building was once the focal point in the civil affairs of the
town acting, as it did, as market, council chamber, magistrates'
court, prison and punishment spot. In a county with some beautiful
architectural scenes to photograph, it seems that the scene of
Guildhall and church tower rank near the top with such as the
Feathers in Ludlow and Stokesay Castle.
It must be remembered that for many years Much Wenlock was a
destination for pilgrims coming to the tomb of Saint Milburga.
Her burial place had been lost for a while but, according to
an ancient document, was "discovered by a boy running
over the grave. A fragrant odour of balsal breathed through the
church, and her body raised high wrought so many miracles that
floods of people poured in thither."
But on November 7th, 1547 the precious relics were burned on
a common bonfire together with the images of various saints.
We know the date and even have a description of the sacrilegious
event because of the writings of Abbot Butler, who was then Vicar
of Much Wenlock. Sadly, most of his writings were destroyed in
a fire in the 18th century.
Elsewhere in the town, there are sufficient limestone and timber,
Georgian and Victorian buildings to make a walk through the town
a delight, particularly early on a Sunday morning when most still
sleep. There's Ashfield Hall, half timber, half brick, which
was once a leper hospital and where Charles I stayed on his way
to Bridgnorth. There's the Gaskell Arms, all red brick and ivy
which always makes me think of stage-coaches and the clatter
of horses' hooves. There are tiny timber-framed shops and houses,
and even the occasional architectural oddity seems to blend happily
into this tiny town. The people of Much Wenlock have even 'exported'
some of their buildings as it must be remembered that Bridgnorth
town hall started life as a barn in the parish of Much Wenlock
and was re-erected on stone arches where it stands to this day.
 
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